Mauna Kea, the highest point in the Pacific Ocean, the highest mountain from its base on the ocean floor, was one of our primary objectives on our Hawaii vacation. Due to the effects of the high altitude environment on all of us, only Tammy and I summitted. It was June 2, 2004. My 16th state HP, her 14th.
Before even planning our trip to Hawaii, I looked into guided tours of Mauna Kea, I kept running into warnings about the effects on children under 16, that no tour group would allow them on the tours. There was no law restricting access, and Baby Mark's pediatrician O.K.'d his travel, so we went anyway. However, our children, ages 4, 3 and 1, did become sick Tammy and I encourage other parents to seriously reconsider taking small children to this height.
We landed at Kona airport, got a Grand Cherokee Laredo with the stipulation that we could not drive on the Saddle Road, the South Point Road and the W---- Road. We inspected the outside identifying each scratch and drove off looking for breakfast. We got some in Waimea and turned back to Hawaii State Highway 200, a 52-mile long road across the northern part of the island between the main mountains Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa, where it gets its name, the Saddle Road. From its western terminus at State Highway 190 to the Mauna Kea Access Road it is mostly a two-lane road, with the middle 10-12 feet smoothly paved and the outer parts rough. We stayed in the middle most of the time. We met several vehicles along the way, retreating to our own lane when necessary.
Parts of the road are used by military vehicles. We drove by the B--- Army Air Field where was a radar device and tower. Farther along is the Mauna Kea State Park entrance on the left. We thought that that might be the access road but it was not. Farther along, we came to the ---- District sign. Here I was confused because we were supposed to turn north before then according to the map that the rental agency gave us. I continued on anyway after some deliberation (Tammy thought that the access was through the State Park entrance, but I was expecting to see Mile Post 28 using Dick Ellsworth's report).
We got to Mile Post 28 and saw a good paved road on the left going toward the top . Just across the road, on the Mauna Loa side was a group of people. The road was wide, short, bumpy and and holey. We turned around and crossed over to the access road. Like most mountain roads, it is steep in places, and has sharp turns. It started off with two lanes with wide shoulders and continued that way all the way to 1/4 mile past the Visitor's Center.
We stopped at the Visitor's Center for the recommended thirty minutes. An employee of the center warned us about the symptoms commonly experienced by children under 16, and encouraged us to watch them carefully for crabby behavior and sleepiness. Unconsciousness can be confused for sleep. We all drank a lot of water and continued driving up. Just a few hundred yards past the Visitor's Center, the pavement ended, replaced by black gravel, loose at first, like sand, then firming up. It continued like this, with a narrow two-lane switchbacking up the south slope. It was washboardy for 4.5 miles before becoming paved again, continuing the switchbacking.
Small signs marked every 1000 feet of elevation gain. We continued to monitor the kids for the warning signs. They became increasingly quiet. At around 13,000 feet, Matthew became unresponsive, but was still breathing. Mark II was becoming more fussy. I was feeling jsut a little woozy. We were all experiencing our first case of altitude sickness.
We brought along winter coats, because we heard that it was cold at the top, but it was not, just a little cool.
Here, next to the ___ telescope, we stopped our jeep. I don't think that the parking area is intended for highpointers to use, but it was midday and there were few other vehicles around, there being room for about 10 cars. I saw the trail up the nearby peak, Puu Wikeu, but no trailhead. I reported back that it was not stroller-friendly. At first, Matthew and Faith seemed able to go, but soon declined to go.
Shortly after us, another, younger couple came up, parked, and also hiked to the top.
Although not a trail head as such, it is the only marker near both the road and the trail to the top. It is only to step over the guard rail to begin the trek.
The trail is well defined from wear. Water erosion has been minimal on this site. It first descends about 130 feet to a saddle, then up about 140 feet to the high point. The slope is partially scree, but not severely so.
I went first, alone, to test the conditions. It took me two minutes to get down to the saddle and four to get from the saddle up to the top. I thought it might be amusing to run up the slope, but that turned out to be a bad idea, as I became quickly fatigued and slowed down to a slow plod. From then on, every time in stooped down, I got light-headed.
The Geological marker is right next to the shrine:
I didn't see a Registration book, but there is evidence of various objects left there:
I took a few pictures while there. Moving counterclockwise, starting from the left of where we parked:
Just as I was about to return to our vehicle, a cold breeze struck me. I wished briefly that I had brought my coat, but it really was doable in short-sleeves. I was in a hurry, so I just started. On my way down to the saddle, I met the other couple coming up, wearing jackets. I presumed that they were state highpointers, but did not ask. I finished my climb, hopped over the rail, and met Tammy. I got back to our vehicle and we discussed taking the children up. They still did not want to go, so I watched the kids, who were not looking well, while Tammy ascended. I kept the camera with me, planning to snap her summit photo from the road.
We gave Matthew a paper bag in case he needed to throw up. He did, and barely missed the mouth of the bag. It ended up on most of his clothes and on the passenger seat of the jeep. I cleaned it up and changed his clothes, keeping an eye on Tammy's progress. While she was climbing up the slope, someone from a near building asked me if I knew who that was walking. When I told him, he mentioned that someone had died of a heart attack three months before. He also heard one of my children and reiterated the minimum recommended age. He was quite concerned and let me know it. We chatted about astronomy at this elevation, and he went back to work.
We followed the same route back out, all the way to the Saddle Road, where we turned left, driving the winding 28 miles of now good two-lane highway into Hilo where we had our hotel reservation. The kids slept most of the return trip, and, at check-in, were back to their usual selves.
At our hotel, we ordered a celebratory pizza, and turned in early. We had a big day planned.
| Family Member | Count |
|---|---|
| Mark | 16 |
| Tammy | 14 |
| Krystyn | |
| Matthew | |
| Faith | |
| Mark II | |
| Shads | |
| Zeke | |
Also, this was my 21st County HP.
| File Name: | |
| Written by: | Mark Ness |
| Last Revised by: | Mark Ness |
| on: |